What I'm doing with those sleeves.
> Comment:
> I couple of questions...are you following the pattern, but just from the bottom up? That's what I thought I'd do. Are you knitting the tapered sleeve?
I am certainly following the sequence of the charts. But no. I'm not following the pattern - if you mean the shaping etc. I want my sweater to fit more closely around the shoulders and I don't want that huge wad of knitting under my arms. It's not flattering look to me.
So. What to do?
I'm knitting a 40" sweater
I'm using the Elizabeth Zimmermann percentage system for figuring out how to knit sleeves.
figure out how many stitches you're knitting around the body. (320)
cast on 20% worth of stitches. That equals 64 stitches.
knit the ribbed cuff.
The first cuff was too dull and flat so I added the yellow and red stripes to it.
when I had a nice cuff depth I increased to 80 stitches which is divisible by 10 - the number of stitches in the orange and green charted pattern, the second pattern up.
After that I have been increaseing 6 stitches on each solid band.
When I have 128 stitches which will be about 40% of the sweater width - I'll stop increasing. I ought to have about 17" of sleeve knit by then - and be somewhere around the petal/sky checkerboard design. This is where I am with the sweater body.
Of course, there's room to fiddle with these numbers and charts somewhat but that's the basic plan.
I will then join all sleeves to the body a la Elizabeth Zimmermann EPS design, but instead of making a yoke sweater I'll knit the set in sleeve shoulder. You do this by decreasing body stitches till the front and back are shoulder width (say, 15" x 8 stitches to the inch ... 120 stitches for front and 120 for back) and then you decrease stitches from the sleeve at a regular intervals till there are no more sleeve stitches left. Gotta know our row guage then, but it's just math. Of course, I haven't worked the math, but I'll be at the shoulder seams by thetime I have no sleeve stitches left. If I want to fill in that little triangular gap between neck, sleeve top and front opening, I can put in a little bit of short row shaping - which I may do in solid colors or may play around with a pattern, depending on how adventurous I feel.
I've done this before so I know it works, though I may not have explained it well. I'll keep good math records though, and share them with the KAL. What I know is that the sweater will look a lot more like the photo if I do this.
And yes. I am making the tapered sleeves - I live in the upper south and I'll probably use this sweater as something of a jacket rather than as a sweater. I sure am enjoying making it.














